Tailoring Guide

THE LAPEL

A tailored choice

NOTCHED LAPEL

The Notched Lapel or Step Collar is the most common type of lapel and is the classical business suits lapel type. If the notch is really small, it is called a fishmouth. Despite its extensive use, formal menswear traditional etiquette excludes it from the great classics for the ceremony, like tuxedos, morning jackets and evening dresses. Great for both sports jackets as for formal suits, its shape is considered the most used.

PEAKED LAPEL

A peaked or pointed lapel is a more formal lapel that is commonly worn with dinner jackets, tailcoats, or morning coats. These jackets almost always come double breasted. In Italy is also common the use of single breasted peaked lapels.

SHAWL LAPEL

The shawl lapel is basically just one curve. It originated form the common use of British lords who went out for smoke during evening events and it was first noted in the Victorian Smoking Jacket. Nowadays, it is commonly seen in tuxedos and even in less formal wears such as robes. Its special feature is the lack of the cran, the cut that separates the real part of the lapel from the collar.

 

THE JACKET POCKETS

A refined detail

Flapped pockets

The flap pocket is standard for side pockets, and has an extra lined flap of matching fabric with rounded angles covering the top of the pocket. This flap was initially created to protect the contents of the pocket from any rain, and is therefore traditionally meant to be tucked in when indoors. However, nowadays it is commonly left out indoors. Flapped pockets can also soften the formality of the classic pocket.

Patch pockets

It is a rectangular fabric sewn directly onto the front of the jacket so that it literally appears like a patch. Patch pockets are a common sporting option, usually seen in day-wear suits and jackets, sometimes seen on summer linen suits, or other informal styles.

 

BUTTON ARRANGEMENT

The tailoring starting point for the outwear

Two buttons suit

It is a classic model, suitable both for day wear and weddings. The two buttons are sewn at the end of the lapel fold and give longness to the figure. The top button should remain buttoned, while the bottom button is left undone.

The three-roll-two suit

The three-roll-two suit is considered the most contemporary button style. It is a three suit masquerading as a two button suit. The first button from the top is sewn before the end of the lapel fold. The top button is designed to be left unbuttoned with the lapel shaped to achieve a deep “V” like the two button suit.

Double-breasted suit

The glamour and heritage of the overlapping suit jacket is the quintessential gentleman’s style. The two halves of the front are considerably overlapped with three pairs of buttons. We recommend to leave only the top button buttoned, it improves suit drape and give a nice masculine figure to the jacket. In recent years, only the most fashion-conscious men have adopted it again instead of the single-breasted.

 

THE JACKET STRUCTURE

A question of Seasons, sometimes of Style

Lined jacket

It is the classic construction of the jacket, which is considered a must for formal occasions and cold seasons.The lining covers all the internal parts of the jacket.

Unlined Jacket

The inside of the jacket has no lining, only the sleeves are lined. Usually, the trasitional unlined jacket is the informal one or those suitable for the summer season, although many prefer it all year long for its lightness.

 

TROUSERS POCKET STYLES

A functional detail that together with fabric and model decrees the intended use of the trousers.

American Pockets

Traditional pocket on the front of the trousers that start from the side and have an inclination of about 30 degrees to the waist.

Slit Pockets

Slit pockets represents a slit style which gives a clean finish on the suit’s hip area. More traditional and formal, people is more keen to use them to put small objects such as coins and keys than in a functional way. This type of pocket is used mostly in the back of the trousers, with some exceptions that find it on the front.

Western Pockets

Appropriate for very casual trousers, but yet more sophisticated than that of the classic jeans pocket. This kind of pocket departs from the side and continues almost parallel to the belt till the middle of the trousers. The opening point is therefore from the upper part.

Straight Pockets

A kind of pocket similar to the American Pocket with the only exception of the absence of the inclination, it falls straight on the side.